How To Repair Scuffed Scratched Hard Plastic
Scuffed, scratched, crash-damaged plastics are the bane of many 1980s and '90s sportsbike owners. With NOS panels either unavailable or hugely expensive, repair is ofttimes the only manner. Hither'due south how…
y Yamaha RD125LC's nose fairing is typical of many '80s and '90s sportsbikes' plastics. An over-exuberant onetime possessor slung the RD upwardly the road leaving the fairing covered in deep, ugly scratches. It looks a mess on the bike, so was resigned to a life in the loft thereafter.
Repairing information technology, though, is relatively easy, doesn't take long, and is a far superior option to buying a cheapo glassfibre replica or a ludicrously priced NOS particular.
With the aid of PS friend and seasoned restorer, Gary Haythorn, we're going to repair the damaged fairing and get it fix for priming.
TOOLS FOR THE Job
You'll need: three grades of sand paper (40/eighty/180). The amount you utilise will depend on the size of the surface area you're dressing; a sanding block; filler, hardener and a spreader; a heat gun or hairdryer, a screwdriver and spanner to remove any panel ancillaries.
A dust mask and goggles will proceed any dust/fumes out of your eyes and lungs.
Techinal level iii/5
Fourth dimension taken one.5 hours
Cost The just real cost you're looking at is for the filler, hardener, sandpaper and possibly a sanding cake. We used U-Pol Easy 1 filler and T Filler hardener which comes as a kit (3.5 litres of filler, two tubes of hardener and a spreader for effectually £25). Sandpaper will price a couple of quid all in, and sanding blocks can exist had for a couple of quid. In total yous're looking at effectually £35.
ane. Remove all unnecessary trim from the panel yous're working on to prevent information technology getting damaged. In this case, with a fairing, take off the screen, the bead trim that runs around the fairing'due south outer border, and the internal mounting brackets.
two. We want to utilize the filler to a make clean surface, so remove the decals. Manufacturing plant decals stick like limpets so they'll require estrus to shift them. A hairdryer volition do if yous don't accept a estrus gun – employ estrus to 1 of the decal's solid edges, and then slowly peel it abroad.
3. This fairing is a mess, with deep scratches and spikes of bear upon-melted plastic. We need the expanse to exist flattened and keyed so the filler can notice buy. Rub down with a rough class paper (P80) to remove the worst. Blow particles away with an airline/hairdryer.
4. Mix the filler. We're using U-Pol Easy i filler and T Filler hardener (they come up in a kit with a spreader). Mix filler with hardener at 50:ane or, every bit Gary says, a golfball size of filler to a pea size of hardener. Mix with the spreader until it achieves a compatible colour and consistency.
5. At present you'll need to work swiftly. Once mixed, the filler and hardener begin a reaction that renders the mix useless afterwards roughly five minutes. Apply the filler in small amounts at first. You want a five-6mm covering over the worst areas so you can sand it downwards into the desired shape.
vi. The filler will harden fully after 20-25 minutes. When it'southward ready, rub it down with a xl-grade paper and a sanding block. Don't apply too much pressure to begin with – 40-grade paper is harsh enough to rip the filler. Work gently until the area is flattened off.
7. Once you've taken the rough edges off the filler with 40-form paper, switch to a finer 80-grade. Fairing panels have very few completely flat surfaces, so y'all tin can create the curves by working the forepart or side edge of the sanding cake into the filler to form the desired shape.
eight. Use the other side of the fairing, or its opposing panel, equally a guide to shape. Feel the angle changes with the tips of your fingers and compare them with the area you're shaping. Don't panic if you cease up removing also much filler though – you tin e'er add more to correct mistakes.
nine. When you're satisfied that the shape of the filler matches that of the original fairing, finish off by rubbing information technology over with P180 paper. This will remove any large scratches from the filler and enable y'all to feather the edges of the filler into the surrounding surface.
10. Once you've smoothed the filler down, blast the fairing with air to remove any dust. Then key the residuum of the fairing/console with Scotchbrite in grooming for the application of primer.
11. Nosecone now ready for priming. Next month nosotros'll show you the best way to utilise primer to provide a good base of operations for a smooth, consistent end. A piffling preparation now saves hours of remedial piece of work when we go to the acme coats.
Words Jim MoorePhotography Rory Game
Source: https://www.motorcyclenews.com/news/2016/april/mcn-plus---how-to-fill-and-repair-scuffed-plastics---ps/
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